The first thing you must do is measure the area of your yard. Sod is sold by the square foot in rolls that are 6 feet by 1.5 feet, so square yards must be converted to square feet. For rectangular or square areas, simply multiply the length by the width (in feet) to get your square footage.

For odd shaped areas, either break the area down into as many measurable rectangles and squares as you can, or measure the longest and widest points and multiply, remembering to round up.

It is recommended to add 5% to your final measured amount. This saves you from having to wait for more sod to be delivered, having to keep the bare yard dry while watering the area where sod is already applied and ensures your lawn has an even, healthy appearance.

Wait 1-2 weeks and reapply, making sure any new growth of turf and weeds are killed. When your old lawn is completely dead, it must be removed. We recommend renting a sod cutter, which will help cut your lawn into small, thin, easily removed strips. When using the sod cutter, be mindful of sprinkler placement. After your old lawn is removed, rake the soil to remove any remaining grass or debris and dispose of it. Watering the area for a few days will allow you to see if anything grows back and, if necessary, kill off the new growth with another application of herbicide.

When the ground is free of all growth and sufficient time has passed following herbicide application (see instructions on package as manufacturer specifications vary), rototill your yard to a depth of 4-6 inches, which will aid in eliminating drainage issues. Spread any soil amendments such as compost or gypsum evenly across the area and rototill the amendments into the soil until thoroughly mixed with existing soil.

If you are planning on installing a sprinkler system, this is the time to do it. Keep in mind that a system with a timer will make sod maintenance much easier, especially in the weeks immediately following installation.

Rake the entire area and level it, with the ideal height being about one inch below the level of borders, sidewalks and the tops of sprinkler heads. Using a water-filled sod roller, compact the surface, checking for low spots that need to be re-graded with a rake before being rolled again.

The first step is to remove any existing lawn, including all weeds, clods and debris. Ideally, you would start this step three weeks before you plan to install your sod, allowing you ample time to ensure all remnants of your previous yard, especially hardy weeds have been eliminated at their lowest depths.

Begin with a well-watered, fast growing yard so that you can be sure you are killing all vegetation, especially weeds. If you skip this step, you run the risk of not addressing dormant weeds. Start the removal process by applying an herbicide like Round-Up to the entire lawn, following all directions for the product closely.

You will need to install sod the day it arrives. If you cannot install the sod early that morning and must wait until the afternoon, keep the sod in a shaded area and mist it every few hours. Do not cover it with anything but completely porous material.

Apply starter fertilizer on top of surface immediately before installing sod (should say "starter" on the bag- we recommend our custom  Act of Sod starter). Be sure your ground is dry when installing sod. Start at the longest straight edge and continue from there. Place each new roll up against the side of the previously laid roll, taking great care not to overlap rolls. To ensure a great looking lawn, be sure to stagger the seams when laying sod, similar to laying bricks. This prevents gaps in your lawn that stem from misalignment of rolls.

In very hot weather (85+ degree days) lightly water the sodded areas after you have installed 200-300 square feet.

After all sod is installed, go over it with a roller. This will ensure that your sod has sufficient contact with the surface underneath, as well as removing any air pockets. Make sure that the roller is filled only halfway with water; otherwise it will leave imprints in your sod. After rolling, water the lawn until the lawn is properly saturated, stopping before water pools on the surface.

Properly maintained sod will thrive indefinitely. But because our sod is free of weeds unlike most natural or seeded lawns, lack of maintenance will show a decline in lawn quality quickly. To preserve your yard’s appearance for years to come, follow these tips.

Water is by far the biggest determinant in how successful your new lawn will be. For the first two weeks following installation it is crucial that you water 3-4 times a day for 10-20 minutes each period, with the first watering in the early morning hours. In very hot weather or for lawns with low sprinkler pressure you may need to water as many as 5-6 times a day for 30 minute periods. Look for your lawn to appear saturated but without pools of water on the surface.

• Stay off your new lawn as much as possible for the first two weeks so that the roots can adhere to your soil.
• Avoid fertilizing your sod until it has been in for approximately 6 weeks. Trust that the pre-installation fertilization will do its job.
• Do not mow your lawn for the first two weeks after installation. Prior to your first mowing, change your mower’s setting to the highest possible level.

Regular fertilization is one of the keys to your lawn’s long term success. If you notice a neighbor whose lawn always seems to be more healthy and vibrant in color than anyone else’s, chances are they fertilize frequently and consistently. Please consult with your local nursery about which fertilizer(s) are right for your sod type and application, but here are some general tips:

• On every fertilizer package, you will see 3 number ratios. They are always in this order: Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium, or N-P-K
• Premium Blue, Premium Blue Rye, and Premium  Fescue Blue should be fertilized about every 3-4 weeks
• Premium Fescue, Premium Fescue Rye, and Bonsai Fescue should be fertilized approximately every 4-6 weeks
• In Spring, it is recommended to use a fertilizer with a low number in the nitrogen formula
• In Summer, look for a fertilizer with a “slow release” nitrogen formula
• In Fall and Winter, use a fertilizer specially formulated for this time of year (often labelled a “winterizing” fertilizer)